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Vintage Resto Resource Thread

A place to relive, revive, and ride that "old iron".

Post Tue Apr 10, 2018 8:57 pm

Posts: 210
Location: near Kingston, NY
450exc115 wrote:
Anybody know which universal motion pro throttle kit works best with a mikuni VM carburetor? Trying to switch from a front pull throttle to a side pull.

I've gotten mine from Speed & Sport....$25 for Gunner Gasser style (Motion Pro), $15 fro the Emgo economy. I've had good luck with the economy ones...

Post Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:02 am

Posts: 1209
BulRider wrote:
450exc115 wrote:
Anybody know which universal motion pro throttle kit works best with a mikuni VM carburetor? Trying to switch from a front pull throttle to a side pull.

I've gotten mine from Speed & Sport....$25 for Gunner Gasser style (Motion Pro), $15 fro the Emgo economy. I've had good luck with the economy ones...


Andy what cable are you running with them?
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

Post Wed Apr 11, 2018 12:09 pm

Posts: 210
Location: near Kingston, NY
450exc115 wrote:
BulRider wrote:
450exc115 wrote:
Anybody know which universal motion pro throttle kit works best with a mikuni VM carburetor? Trying to switch from a front pull throttle to a side pull.

I've gotten mine from Speed & Sport....$25 for Gunner Gasser style (Motion Pro), $15 fro the Emgo economy. I've had good luck with the economy ones...


Andy what cable are you running with them?


On the last bike, I just used the same cable when I switched to a side-pull, just needed to shorten up the outer shielding an inch or two. S & S also have matching cables on their site...

Post Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:05 am

Posts: 272
Does anyone have know of any good guides for seat recovering? I'm going to try to tackle the one on my IT and I'd rather it not come out like crap. Its got a plastic pan and the cover is stapled and I cant seem to find a youtube video that would work exactly with this set up.

Post Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:16 am

Posts: 1588
This is just my weird way of doing seat covers.
I use stainless staples, maybe 3/8 but not too long.
Center the cover and tack on the front and back in the center.
Make sure the cover overhangs an equal amount on the sides. Also make sure any lettering is centered.
I stretch it and tack only a few spots along the sides.
Then I let them sit and sort of stretch out for a few days or until the next weekend.
After that I go back and stretch it as much as possible until any wrinkles are out.


XRs_Mostly wrote:
Does anyone have know of any good guides for seat recovering? I'm going to try to tackle the one on my IT and I'd rather it not come out like crap. Its got a plastic pan and the cover is stapled and I cant seem to find a youtube video that would work exactly with this set up.

Post Mon Jun 25, 2018 12:00 pm

Posts: 234
XRs_Mostly wrote:
Does anyone have know of any good guides for seat recovering? I'm going to try to tackle the one on my IT and I'd rather it not come out like crap. Its got a plastic pan and the cover is stapled and I cant seem to find a youtube video that would work exactly with this set up.

I've done a couple of them and honestly the first one I did looked like absolute garbage! I think I pulled that thing off 3 times before I just gave up and figured it is what it is. The last couple I have done were very similar to what MikeD has said, align front and back, make sure any lettering is centered or aligned. The two things I think helped me was 1. I used an electric staple gun and 2. I used a hair dryer to get the cover to stretch tight. Now I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination but these things did seem to make a better job of it.

Post Mon Jun 25, 2018 1:45 pm

Posts: 1507
XRs_Mostly wrote:
Does anyone have know of any good guides for seat recovering? I'm going to try to tackle the one on my IT and I'd rather it not come out like crap. Its got a plastic pan and the cover is stapled and I cant seem to find a youtube video that would work exactly with this set up.


Regardless of the seat or technique you use, do yourself a favor and get the right tools.

A Surebonder 9600 is worth it's weight in gold. It uses arrow T 50 staples.
Generally are use 8 mm length but I've gone down as short as 4 mm for areas where I risk the staples poking through the cover on the other side. Most of the time 8 or 10mm works fine
Also a thin but dull/rounded flat head screwdriver and a grippy set of pliers works well for removing New and old staples without hurting yourself.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328526_200328526?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Air%20Nailers&utm_campaign=SureBonder&utm_content=259600&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhIq77azv2wIVFarsCh1A9g6PEAQYAiABEgIEF_D_BwE

Mike's method works well on seats that don't have a long flexible tongue on the front.
If you find the front of the seat is bending into a banana shape as you try and stretch the cover to the rear, then you're better off to do the front as its own section and work your way towards the rear.. that way the seat won't pull away from the tank once everything is done and mounted in place.
Also a hair dryer, wood stove and even a clothes dryer (for a minute at a time) work well to soften the cover and make it more stretchy and pliable, but nothing beats direct sun to keep a constant supply of heat on the cover at all times. Yes you will sweat your balls off and curse a lot but it works well..
Good luck.

Post Tue Aug 28, 2018 6:35 pm

Posts: 272
Silly me I forgot to post pictures. 35 dollar seat cover from China and a pneumatic stapler and I'm really happy with how this came out. This is after 3 races and zero washes. Thanks for the tips guys.

Image
Image

Post Wed Aug 29, 2018 7:49 am

Posts: 728
Another trick for the bannanana seats is a shot of aerosol glue to the foam in the curved section then install the cover after it tacks up. This will guarantee you will not get the wrinkles or air pockets in that section.

Post Sat Oct 13, 2018 7:13 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
I installed a used gripper cover on the KX, and after I cleaned it, before the install, I tossed it in the dryer on the “speed dry” cycle. Came out very pliable, did the install right away & the results were decent, as it stayed warm for a while and stretched well around the seat contours.
Steve

MVTR

Post Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:23 am

Posts: 879
I let the cover sit on the seat out in the direct sun for a few minutes and that's usually all it takes. A pneumatic upholstery stapler is worth it's weight in gold and you don't need a super nice one. Mine is a Chicago Pneumatic or something like that from harbor freight. Tack the rear, then the front and then work on pulling the sides down to get the form even.

"Swoopy" seats are a challenge, but just take your time and remember, you can always pull staples to readjust.

IMAG1215_SM.jpg
Valves are STILL for toilets!

Post Tue Oct 01, 2019 2:45 pm
jsc
C Class Poster

Posts: 165
New CDI for your old Yamaha?
why go to fleEbay for one that might work?, when you can get a new one from Merica!
I have not used them but I may look into it for my IT 200 if a need comes up. I just replaced the Stator, i assume the CDI is next

https://dynotronix.com/index.html

Post Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:11 am
who restores,repairs expansion chambers? I seem to remember a thread about it,cant remember if it was here or elsewhere on a forum. Have a 73 elsinore with a pretty good pipe,but has a couple dents.

Post Fri Apr 03, 2020 7:44 am
nobody??? maybe millenium?

Post Fri Apr 03, 2020 8:31 am

Posts: 1209
There was a guy who was part of the Hard Knox crew that was doing it but he might have passed away a few years ago. Fusion retired last year but you never know he might do one here and there. If you do FaceButt I'd ask in New England MX as I've seen a few people offer their services. Also reach out to Nate of HVR as he has done some great pipe restores on his own bikes.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

Post Sun Apr 05, 2020 11:30 am
fusion was the place i had read about,have to get out and get some pics of bike,thanks

Post Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:05 am

Posts: 728
Matt did Pass away a few years ago. There is another guy doing them for us in Southwick. His name is Zach Smith and his number is 413 478 3234. If you want you can mention my name when you call. He is a Knox member as well.
Dave

Post Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:28 pm

Posts: 66
ANYONE KNOW ANYONE THAT KNOWS SOMEONE FOR MID 90'S DR350 PARTS ?? JUST STARTING A PROJECT BIKE NOW AND ALL MY RESOURCES/KNOWLEDGE ARE HONDA :biggrin

Post Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:21 pm

Posts: 757
crfrick wrote:
ANYONE KNOW ANYONE THAT KNOWS SOMEONE FOR MID 90'S DR350 PARTS ?? JUST STARTING A PROJECT BIKE NOW AND ALL MY RESOURCES/KNOWLEDGE ARE HONDA :biggrin


13 years of knowledge here and very helpful folks.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/dr350-thread.230695/
I wanted a rich uncle, but I got an Uncle Rich.

Post Thu Apr 09, 2020 7:52 am

Posts: 66
:beer thank you

Post Thu May 07, 2020 12:59 pm

Posts: 68
For those looking:
Not mine!
1978 Bultaco Frontera Parts bike:
https://nh.craigslist.org/mpo/d/east-de ... 73658.html

Post Tue Jun 30, 2020 5:54 am

Posts: 46
Location: old lyme ct
Looking to get a set of Maico engine cases vapor blasted. Does anyone know someone local that can do that. I`m in southeast Connecticut....Thx

Post Tue Jun 30, 2020 8:08 am

Posts: 1209
maico172 wrote:
Looking to get a set of Maico engine cases vapor blasted. Does anyone know someone local that can do that. I`m in southeast Connecticut....Thx


Doug Sherman (Premodern racer) has a vapor blast cabinet and is out of Plymouth MA. He's on FB too if you need to look him up.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

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