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1983 CR 250 Build Thread

A place to relive, revive, and ride that "old iron".

Post Sat Mar 21, 2020 7:18 pm

Posts: 1209
It looks very similar to what Honda used on the first CRF 450s from 02-08. You can always try one of those. I'll check my leftover parts bin too.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

Post Sat Mar 21, 2020 8:22 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
I have a friend with a CRF 250 and 450 - I might see if I can get one from him for a test fit.
Steve

MVTR

Post Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:21 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
I measured the space where the band would fit from frame to the center of the bolt on the tank, it’s 2.4”, so I’d expect I need to find a 2.2” un-stretched band length.
Steve

MVTR

Post Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:51 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Ended up ordering the CRF450 band, it should work.
Attachments
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Steve

MVTR

Post Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:43 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
I think I spent 2 hours sanding the tank last night - ugh - at least I had some good tunes on the radio to help pass the time. The tank looks decent, but now I have to swap in the 400 grit sandpaper and have at it, then polishing compound. I’ll post pics.
Steve

MVTR

Post Mon Mar 23, 2020 3:21 pm

Posts: 879
Plastic restoration is an art. Tedious, but rewarding as well. Have fun!
Valves are STILL for toilets!

Post Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:34 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
It hasn’t been too tedious Todd - I need to snap some pics & post. I do need to finish it up, but of course there one deep gouge I can’t get out or it’ll thin the plastic too much. It’s a race bike, so it’ll work.

I did get a front hub delivered today ($60 shipped) - so I’ll lace up the new hoop with the Buchanan spokes, and have a complete spare wheel off the 2nd bike that followed me home.
Steve

MVTR

Post Thu Apr 02, 2020 4:39 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Just to document for other folks who are working on an ‘83 Honda CR, and are looking for a tank strap (and know how to search) the PN 17515-MEB-670 is an absolutely acceptable replacement for PN 17516-KA3-710 that is NLA. It fit really well - Thanks Tom !
Steve

MVTR

Post Sun Apr 05, 2020 5:33 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Out in the barn wrenching on the CR - and ran into the next snafu - seems to be quite the gap between the air box and carb. Who knows that the “wrong” part is, guess I’ll have to put on my detective hat.
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Steve

MVTR

Post Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:21 am

Posts: 879
I'd just put a reed spacer in there and be done with it. They're rumored to help low end and mid range. :shades:
Valves are STILL for toilets!

Post Thu Apr 16, 2020 2:06 am

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
The reed spacer is in place, that did the trick.

For new brake shoes - assume the grooved EBC shoes are what everyone recommends?
Steve

MVTR

Post Thu Apr 16, 2020 7:48 am

Posts: 1209
sjsst41 wrote:
The reed spacer is in place, that did the trick.

For new brake shoes - assume the grooved EBC shoes are what everyone recommends?


Grooved EBCs are what I run in all my bikes.. :)
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

Post Thu Apr 16, 2020 8:20 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Thanks Tom - new shoes F+R are on order
Steve

MVTR

Post Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:51 am

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
The ‘83 forks were finished being assembled and installed this weekend.

I stumbled upon a finish technique for the lower fork tubes. At first I wasn’t sure what the plan was to finish, I thought about polishing the aluminum, but after 37 years of use, there were a lot of dings in the metal that were not coming out with sanding. So I purchased a can of Rustoleum “Aluminum” finish paint, and I had a can of Rustoleum “metallic silver” paint. If I use one, or the other, the finish didn’t look quite right - but if I put down a base coat of aluminum finish paint, then an overcoat of the metallic silver - it turned out quite nice.

Work is crazy right now, but I’ll try to get some pics up.
Steve

MVTR

Post Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:46 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Pic of status
Attachments
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Steve

MVTR

Post Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:49 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Need to finish sanding/polishing the tank
Attachments
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Steve

MVTR

Post Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:53 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Also the EBC front shoes were delivered today, they look a little less quality than what I expected, there’s a lot of casting flashing and as-cast surface roughness where I didn’t expect (pivot surface). Anyone else see this on EBC brake shoes? Or did I get sent a knock-off in an EBC box?
Attachments
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Steve

MVTR

Post Tue Apr 21, 2020 1:30 pm

Posts: 1209
I just checked a set of EBCs for a RM125 and that looks normal. Smooth metal on the actuator flat but normal casting on the pivot.

Mine looks a little cleaner but otherwise the same.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1977 MX3, 1977 RM 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 PE250, 1988 Cagiva WMX, 90 CRM250, 98 YZ250

Post Fri May 01, 2020 4:25 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
More progress - but still a lot left to do
Attachments
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Steve

MVTR

Post Fri May 01, 2020 4:32 pm

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Needs some blue -
Steve

MVTR

Post Fri May 01, 2020 4:46 pm

Posts: 459
Steve that looks badass with the black. My 84 Husky has a blue seat but I am seriously thinking of going black to match some of the detailed pieces I painted black.

Post Fri May 01, 2020 6:13 pm

Posts: 257
Looking good man.

Post Sat May 02, 2020 7:56 am

Posts: 1507
sjsst41 wrote:
Needs some blue -


True story

Post Sat May 02, 2020 8:37 am

Posts: 1284
Location: Amherst, NH
Thanks for the comments guys. I had in my mind what the black frame and seat cover would look like, but after implementing, it does need some other color to make it stand out. I have the stock graphics & plate backing and numbers to add, but just don’t think that’ll be enough. I also need to finish polishing the tank.

Regarding technical status - I got the clutch action almost perfect - just added a Moose EZ pull mechanism, added a pair of cartridge bearings to the pro-taper pivot as well as swapping in a new clutch cable from an ‘80s CR 80 - I needed a shorter cable due to the EZ pull mechanisms extra length.

I do need to give those front DLS brakes significant attention, and try to adjust them properly, looking like they will be a PITA to get right.
Steve

MVTR

Post Sat May 02, 2020 9:02 am

Posts: 926
Most DLS brakes are very sensitive to setup, pads and clearances. And the added bonus for trail use that they have ZERO
braking force rolling backwards :shock

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