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Where is the Sledge Hammer?

Post your mechanical questions here. Tips. Trick. Techniques.

Post Sat Feb 14, 2015 1:01 pm

Posts: 158

1984 Husky WR400 Swing Arm bolt.

Seized in place tighter than a bullfrogs azz. :x

I'm getting a good buzz from the PB Blaster fumes! :crazy:

Still not budging. :bleep:

Any advice?
Attachments
Swing Arm Bolt.jpg

Post Sat Feb 14, 2015 3:03 pm

Posts: 1430
maybe some heat or an impact wrench?

Post Sat Feb 14, 2015 4:32 pm

Posts: 158

Can't do the impact wrench because there is a nut on both ends. :bleep:

Not looking forward to lugging this thing to the shop where the torches are. :x

Post Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:01 pm

Posts: 643
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

* ATF = Automatic Trans Fluid

also, is the swingarm shaft hollow?

What I did was to find the next size (diameter) american size steel rod. Then I drilled and tapped the center (end) and put an allen head screw in as a guide. The allen head is to fit into the hollow size hole in the swingarm shaft. That way, you wont hurt the threads and you can't go crooked and smash the bearings.

I put the "home brew" on with the bike laying down like you and waited 2 days, then hit it with my special drift tool and voila.
I wanted a rich uncle, but I got an Uncle Rich.

Post Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:13 pm

Posts: 62
Rocketman wrote:
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

* ATF = Automatic Trans Fluid

also, is the swingarm shaft hollow?

What I did was to find the next size (diameter) american size steel rod. Then I drilled and tapped the center (end) and put an allen head screw in as a guide. The allen head is to fit into the hollow size hole in the swingarm shaft. That way, you wont hurt the threads and you can't go crooked and smash the bearings.

I put the "home brew" on with the bike laying down like you and waited 2 days, then hit it with my special drift tool and voila.

Thanks for the tip Russ! I have a swingarm bolt that siezed in my '89 KDX200 & I gave up on getting it out over 15 years ago... It would be nice to finally get that bolt out and restore the bike for some easy-riding vintage races!
01 Honda CR250R/06 Yamaha YZ250/16 Beta Evo 300
SuperSenior "B" = 3rd Overall - 2015 NETRA Enduros
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Post Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:55 pm

Posts: 158

Well, I Finally got the bolt out. :twothumbs:

What a F'in PITA! :bleep:

Had to sawzall off both ends of the bolt, then remove the engine from the frame with the swingarm still attached, and then pounded it out with a sledge. :evil:

Kids, take my advise: LUBE YOUR SWING ARM! :x

Post Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:18 am

Posts: 59
Oh, Boy. This thread makes me want to pull the pivot bolt out of my 2012 KTM TONIGHT, and grease it. It is probably too late...


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