Board index All Things Vintage 1989 YZ250WR

1989 YZ250WR

A place to relive, revive, and ride that "old iron".

Post Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:17 pm

Posts: 1009
Dana as I think about it I bet Yamaha used the same spline for nearly all the YZ/IT stuff.. Probably what is specific is the steel actuator on the shifter drum side. You could buy a new shaft from a similar year and then have the shop weld on the old actuator... Just a thought.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1974 MT250, 1977 MX3, 1977 RM/TS 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 YZ465, 90 RM125, 90 CRM250

Post Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:28 pm

Posts: 590
450exc115 wrote:
Dana as I think about it I bet Yamaha used the same spline for nearly all the YZ/IT stuff.. Probably what is specific is the steel actuator on the shifter drum side. You could buy a new shaft from a similar year and then have the shop weld on the old actuator... Just a thought.


Exactly what we’re doing. He’s also going to turn a few extra shafts with some harder steel for future experiments.

Post Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:58 pm

Posts: 590
My first attempt at restoring plastic went about as well as anything else I’ve done for the first time..they look worse than the ol yeller ones I’m sending back tmrw... ordered new aftermarket today. Pics don’t show the full suckness of eitherImage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:13 pm

Posts: 590
FATDADRACING wrote:
My first attempt at restoring plastic went about as well as anything else I’ve done for the first time..they look worse than the ol yeller ones I’m sending back tmrw... ordered new aftermarket today. Pics don’t show the full suckness of eitherImage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Progress on re assembly is slowImage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 10:42 am

Posts: 409
The old fenders look perfect. I wish mine looked like that. What did you do exactly. Hair product? Peroxide? What brand and how long. any sanding?

Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:38 am

Posts: 590
Marc, they really look bad up close...all I did was sand with 150,220,500,1000 grit sandpaper, lacquer thinner and some plasti coat clear gloss. A lot of work for the result I got. I’ve heard that buffing with automotive type compounds is the real deal, and 40% peroxide based cream hair lightener and a bag in the sun is the way to go...Ain’t nobody got time for dat! So I just got new so I can be pissed at myself some more when I wreck em. :thumbsup:

Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:34 pm
RM
B Class Poster

Posts: 411
I get the concern for aesthetics but just grab another gear -it’s harder to see plastics in 3rd or 4th...

Post Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:50 am

Posts: 1432
plastic resto was my favorate,, now i can't stand dealing with it.

Post Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:38 pm

Posts: 590
Anyone have a set of or even pics of some radiator guards for this? I have an idea based on newer ones to fab a set, just looking for input , or a set to bolt on with some mods...

Post Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:23 pm

Posts: 590
ECL wrote:
I believe any resto that starts with a powder coated frame should be called a BOAT. Anyone that has owned a boat knows that BOAT stands for break out another thousand. Ask MikeDi, he'll tell ya all about it.


So, I could have a lot of boats by now....I’m almost done buying, need to restrict my eBay viewing time.. :omg:

Post Mon May 28, 2018 8:42 pm

Posts: 590
FATDADRACING wrote:
ECL wrote:
I believe any resto that starts with a powder coated frame should be called a BOAT. Anyone that has owned a boat knows that BOAT stands for break out another thousand. Ask MikeDi, he'll tell ya all about it.


So, I could have a lot of boats by now....I’m almost done buying, need to restrict my eBay viewing time.. :omg:


Well, it looks good, but it should run way better than it did for all the boats I put in it...any idea what needle came stock? I have two carbs and each is different jetted.Image


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Post Mon May 28, 2018 11:09 pm
ECL
C Class Poster

Posts: 175
Jetting is voodoo science to me, but google 1989 wr250 stock jetting. The first result should be a thread from thumper talk discussing your bike. Lots of info there it seems.

Post Tue May 29, 2018 7:44 am

Posts: 37
part number says J8-6JD8-63 if that helps...

Post Tue May 29, 2018 5:41 pm

Posts: 590
Yup, that’s the one in the old carb, new carb came with way shorter needle....thanks.
Next question, I installed a reed block spacer in hopes of gaining some low end...anyone use these and will it affect jetting?

Post Tue May 29, 2018 8:16 pm

Posts: 1062
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:28 pm

Posts: 590
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?


The only time it ran clean was WFO last week..I’ve since put the jetting back to stock, but get a big burble in the middle when shifting, and it takes a long time to idle down in neutral.
Stock: 60 pilot 340 main needle in 3rd position ( middle)
New carb: 45 pilot 370 main needle didn’t matter because it was almost 3mm shorter than stock.

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:43 pm

Posts: 661
FATDADRACING wrote:
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?


The only time it ran clean was WFO last week..I’ve since put the jetting back to stock, but get a big burble in the middle when shifting, and it takes a long time to idle down in neutral.
Stock: 60 pilot 340 main needle in 3rd position ( middle)
New carb: 45 pilot 370 main needle didn’t matter because it was almost 3mm shorter than stock.


If a 2T won't idle down, that's a lean pilot...

And the burble in the middle is FAT (rich needle or it's clip setting)
NW CT
I speak vintage, but don't ride it!

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:54 pm

Posts: 661
This is one of the better write ups out there on 2T carb jetting. It will help you get through the voodoo science ;)

https://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter ... etting.pdf
NW CT
I speak vintage, but don't ride it!

Post Sun Jun 03, 2018 9:31 pm

Posts: 1062
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Mon Jun 04, 2018 2:21 pm

Posts: 590
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?


Stock needle 6DJ8-63 middle position

Post Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:11 pm

Posts: 1062
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana,

So what's in my 38mm TMX is 6EJ12-58

Seems to be working well, wanted to purchase the stock needle, but can't find stock anywhere.

On a side note - the pilot jet was 20 :omg: ! I ordered a 45 today.

FATDADRACING wrote:
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?


Stock needle 6DJ8-63 middle position
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Sun Aug 12, 2018 2:00 pm

Posts: 590
Carb issues, now overheating.. so I pulled the head today after checking the timing.. head gaskets looked good, however there’s way too much fuel going in. It looked like the power valve was hitting the piston, but it’s actually just floating around. The dowel pins are gone and the bolt threads that hold the two halves were stripped out. Only half the valve was ever working.. should have a lot to do with the jetting I think,lol. Back to the machinist.ImageImage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:08 pm

Posts: 1207
Is this for sale yet?

Post Sat Aug 25, 2018 8:16 pm

Posts: 590
Not yet, I’m not done fixing it .... :omg:

Post Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:09 pm

Posts: 590
Was hoping to try this little trick this weekend. I called Rich Daly at Dynoport Monday and it was here today! Image


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

PreviousNext

Return to All Things Vintage