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1989 YZ250WR

A place to relive, revive, and ride that "old iron".

Post Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:17 pm

Posts: 987
Dana as I think about it I bet Yamaha used the same spline for nearly all the YZ/IT stuff.. Probably what is specific is the steel actuator on the shifter drum side. You could buy a new shaft from a similar year and then have the shop weld on the old actuator... Just a thought.
Tom A.
SRCR President
Vintage Series Racer
1974 MT250, 1977 MX3, 1977 RM/TS 175, 1980 CR250R, 1981 YZ465, 87/88 RM125,

Post Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:28 pm

Posts: 588
450exc115 wrote:
Dana as I think about it I bet Yamaha used the same spline for nearly all the YZ/IT stuff.. Probably what is specific is the steel actuator on the shifter drum side. You could buy a new shaft from a similar year and then have the shop weld on the old actuator... Just a thought.


Exactly what we’re doing. He’s also going to turn a few extra shafts with some harder steel for future experiments.

Post Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:58 pm

Posts: 588
My first attempt at restoring plastic went about as well as anything else I’ve done for the first time..they look worse than the ol yeller ones I’m sending back tmrw... ordered new aftermarket today. Pics don’t show the full suckness of eitherImage


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Post Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:13 pm

Posts: 588
FATDADRACING wrote:
My first attempt at restoring plastic went about as well as anything else I’ve done for the first time..they look worse than the ol yeller ones I’m sending back tmrw... ordered new aftermarket today. Pics don’t show the full suckness of eitherImage


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Progress on re assembly is slowImage


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Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 10:42 am

Posts: 406
The old fenders look perfect. I wish mine looked like that. What did you do exactly. Hair product? Peroxide? What brand and how long. any sanding?

Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:38 am

Posts: 588
Marc, they really look bad up close...all I did was sand with 150,220,500,1000 grit sandpaper, lacquer thinner and some plasti coat clear gloss. A lot of work for the result I got. I’ve heard that buffing with automotive type compounds is the real deal, and 40% peroxide based cream hair lightener and a bag in the sun is the way to go...Ain’t nobody got time for dat! So I just got new so I can be pissed at myself some more when I wreck em. :thumbsup:

Post Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:34 pm
RM
B Class Poster

Posts: 402
I get the concern for aesthetics but just grab another gear -it’s harder to see plastics in 3rd or 4th...

Post Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:50 am

Posts: 1397
plastic resto was my favorate,, now i can't stand dealing with it.

Post Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:38 pm

Posts: 588
Anyone have a set of or even pics of some radiator guards for this? I have an idea based on newer ones to fab a set, just looking for input , or a set to bolt on with some mods...

Post Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:23 pm

Posts: 588
ECL wrote:
I believe any resto that starts with a powder coated frame should be called a BOAT. Anyone that has owned a boat knows that BOAT stands for break out another thousand. Ask MikeDi, he'll tell ya all about it.


So, I could have a lot of boats by now....I’m almost done buying, need to restrict my eBay viewing time.. :omg:

Post Mon May 28, 2018 8:42 pm

Posts: 588
FATDADRACING wrote:
ECL wrote:
I believe any resto that starts with a powder coated frame should be called a BOAT. Anyone that has owned a boat knows that BOAT stands for break out another thousand. Ask MikeDi, he'll tell ya all about it.


So, I could have a lot of boats by now....I’m almost done buying, need to restrict my eBay viewing time.. :omg:


Well, it looks good, but it should run way better than it did for all the boats I put in it...any idea what needle came stock? I have two carbs and each is different jetted.Image


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Post Mon May 28, 2018 11:09 pm
ECL
C Class Poster

Posts: 166
Jetting is voodoo science to me, but google 1989 wr250 stock jetting. The first result should be a thread from thumper talk discussing your bike. Lots of info there it seems.

Post Tue May 29, 2018 7:44 am

Posts: 36
part number says J8-6JD8-63 if that helps...

Post Tue May 29, 2018 5:41 pm

Posts: 588
Yup, that’s the one in the old carb, new carb came with way shorter needle....thanks.
Next question, I installed a reed block spacer in hopes of gaining some low end...anyone use these and will it affect jetting?

Post Tue May 29, 2018 8:16 pm

Posts: 1032
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:28 pm

Posts: 588
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?


The only time it ran clean was WFO last week..I’ve since put the jetting back to stock, but get a big burble in the middle when shifting, and it takes a long time to idle down in neutral.
Stock: 60 pilot 340 main needle in 3rd position ( middle)
New carb: 45 pilot 370 main needle didn’t matter because it was almost 3mm shorter than stock.

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:43 pm

Posts: 636
FATDADRACING wrote:
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - that motor in stock form should have had a solid low to mid-range. Is that not the case?


The only time it ran clean was WFO last week..I’ve since put the jetting back to stock, but get a big burble in the middle when shifting, and it takes a long time to idle down in neutral.
Stock: 60 pilot 340 main needle in 3rd position ( middle)
New carb: 45 pilot 370 main needle didn’t matter because it was almost 3mm shorter than stock.


If a 2T won't idle down, that's a lean pilot...

And the burble in the middle is FAT (rich needle or it's clip setting)
NW CT
I speak vintage, but don't ride it!

Post Tue May 29, 2018 9:54 pm

Posts: 636
This is one of the better write ups out there on 2T carb jetting. It will help you get through the voodoo science ;)

https://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter ... etting.pdf
NW CT
I speak vintage, but don't ride it!

Post Sun Jun 03, 2018 9:31 pm

Posts: 1032
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Mon Jun 04, 2018 2:21 pm

Posts: 588
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?


Stock needle 6DJ8-63 middle position

Post Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:11 pm

Posts: 1032
Location: Amherst, NH
Dana,

So what's in my 38mm TMX is 6EJ12-58

Seems to be working well, wanted to purchase the stock needle, but can't find stock anywhere.

On a side note - the pilot jet was 20 :omg: ! I ordered a 45 today.

FATDADRACING wrote:
sjsst41 wrote:
Dana - I see you referenced this FMF info for recommended settings.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Content/Instru ... 000346.pdf

What needle is in your bike now?


Stock needle 6DJ8-63 middle position
Steve

VP, MVTR

Post Sun Aug 12, 2018 2:00 pm

Posts: 588
Carb issues, now overheating.. so I pulled the head today after checking the timing.. head gaskets looked good, however there’s way too much fuel going in. It looked like the power valve was hitting the piston, but it’s actually just floating around. The dowel pins are gone and the bolt threads that hold the two halves were stripped out. Only half the valve was ever working.. should have a lot to do with the jetting I think,lol. Back to the machinist.ImageImage


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Post Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:08 pm

Posts: 1180
Is this for sale yet?

Post Sat Aug 25, 2018 8:16 pm

Posts: 588
Not yet, I’m not done fixing it .... :omg:

Post Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:09 pm

Posts: 588
Was hoping to try this little trick this weekend. I called Rich Daly at Dynoport Monday and it was here today! Image


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